COLABA. Every evening, hundreds of diners gather on a narrow side-street behind the Taj Mahal Palace & Tower to enjoy spicy kebabs and curries served fast and furious from a tiny hole-in-the-wall kitchen. Some people eat in the street, others in their cars, and others in the informal dining room on Tulloch Road. To order, find a table and grab one of the passing waiters ­ the menu is written on a laminated card on each table.

COLABA. Forget Starbucks ­ Barista is the leading coffeeshop chain in Mumbai. Locals and travellers come here in droves to sip on convincing cappuccino, espresso, European-style tea, and sinful smoothies and coffee shakes. There are dozens of branches around Mumbai and some have high-speed wireless internet access, so you can browse while you sip.

A spin-off from the Barista coffee chain, Barista Crème takes the concept of the coffeeshop and adds in deli sandwiches, salads, cheese melts, and sweet hot and cold desserts. People still come here to enjoy full-flavoured espresso and cappuccino, but the café-like atmosphere ensures that people take their time. It's a popular place for breakfast with friends or a working lunch.

One of India's leading coffee-chains, Café Coffee Day serves up real espresso, cappuccino and other Italian favourites, made with real Arabica beans. Locals flock here for coffee, smoothies and sweet cakes, plus the modern, international atmosphere. There are branches all over town, including near the New Capital Cinema in Fort and at Juhu and Chowpatty Beach.

It might look like a tiny hole in the wall, but this simple takeaway has been serving Mumbai's best kulfi (Indian-style ice cream) for decades. The desert comes in a tantalising variety of flavours, including chocolate, banana, pistachio and dried fruit, and there is always a line of contented patrons out front. It's just across Marine Drive from Chowpatty Beach.