Mumbai's most famous public space, the beach at Chowpatty was run down and dirty before the municipal authorities transformed it into the gleaming strip of sand you see today. Locals come here to sit on the sand and munch on bhelpuri ­ Mumbai's favourite salad, made from lentil-flour noodles, green mango, onion and chilli. At sunset, a carnival atmosphere pervades: couples promenade along the sand and children play on hand-operated fairground rides.

A 40-minute boat ride across the harbour from the Gateway of India, Elephanta Island is famous for its ornately carved temples, hewn into a rocky escarpment in the 6th century. Although damaged, the carvings are still impressive. The central statue of Trimurti ­ Shiva as the creator, preserver and destroyer of the universe ­ is particularly dramatic. The temples are reached via a stone stairway from the ferry jetty, lined with vendors selling religious souvenirs. Ferry service is restricted during the monsoon.

Reached by a winding causeway that vanishes below the waves at high tide, this historic shrine commemorates Haji Ali, the Muslim saint whose body allegedly washed up on the shores of Back Bay in the 19th century. The causeway is lined with hawkers selling religious paraphernalia, and beggars seeking alms from pilgrims. Non-Muslims are welcome to enter the Dargah, which rings with devotional music, but photography is prohibited.

Mumbai's favourite seafront promenade runs along the west coast of the isthmus, facing out onto Back Bay. Locals come here daily to stroll along the seawall, enjoying the cooling breezes, and picnic looking out towards Chowpatty Beach and Malabar Hill. Hundreds of people gather at sunset to watch the sun sink into the Arabian Sea. At night, the strip is lit up by hundreds of lights ­ affectionately tagged the 'string of pearls' by locals.